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<title>Chocolate &amp; Zucchini</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/</link>
<description>Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen</description>
<image><url>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/cnzthumbnail.png</url></image>
<dc:language>en-us</dc:language>
<dc:creator></dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-05-01T00:30:30+01:00</dc:date>
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<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/05/may_2011_desktop_calendar.php">
<title>May 2011 Desktop Calendar</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/05/may_2011_desktop_calendar.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="photo" alt="May 2011 Desktop Calendar" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/calendar/2011/05/springveg_small.jpg" width="370" height="246"></p>

<p><i>At the beginning of every month, I am offering C&Z readers a new wallpaper to apply on the desktop of your computer, with a food-related picture and a calendar of the current month.</i></p>

<p>Our <b>calendar for May</b> is a picture of <b>spring vegetables</b> (carrots, turnips, scallions) grated with the blade of my paring knife, rinsed, and ready to be steamed. The next chapter of their life will then be spent (briefly) on the plate, in the company of a soft-boiled egg and a thin stream of my best finishing oil, or coated in this <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/11/simple_tahini_sauce.php">simple tahini sauce</a>, with a side of pita bread.</p>

<p><b>Bonus tip</b> to go with this month's desktop calendar: the young, spring versions of the carrot and the turnip don't keep quite as long as the more mature ones, and if you're not expedient about using them, they can go limp and unappealing. Don't toss them! Just place them in a bowl with fresh water and a few ice cubes, put the whole thing in the fridge, and give it a few hours: the vegetables will perk right up. (It works with radishes, too.)</p>

<p>Instructions to <b>get your calendar</b> are below.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/05/may_2011_desktop_calendar.php#more">May 2011 Desktop Calendar</a>&quot;<br />
<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/05/may_2011_desktop_calendar.php#comments">View comments</a><br /><br />
<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Desktop Calendar</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-05-01T00:30:30+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/how_to_peel_onions_without_crying.php">
<title>How Not To Cry</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/how_to_peel_onions_without_crying.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="Red onion" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/vegetables/redonion.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>Of all the kitchen inconveniences the cook has to live with, the one that generates the highest number of defensive strategies is no doubt the chopping of onions, and the associated <b>teargas effect</b>.</p>

<p>The reason why it makes you cry is <a href="http://blogs.static.mentalfloss.com/blogs/archives/22202.html">explained in detail here</a>, and if you like to read about enzymes and syn-propanethial-S-oxide, as do I, it is worth a read.</p>

<p>But to put it more simply, chopping onions causes the release of an irritant gas in the air, which, upon reaching your eyes, triggers a blinking and tearing <b>reflex</b> designed to wash it away. Yet another illustration, albeit an annoying one, of what a nifty machine the ol' human body is.</p>

<p>Not all onions are created equal (the fresher the onion, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0143114131?tag=chocolzucchi-20">the less you cry</a>) and not all cooks are as sensitive, but this phenomenon explains the volume of <b>tips and tricks</b> floating about -- some of them amusingly contradictory -- designed to either hinder the release of said gas, or prevent it from reaching the eyes.</p>

<p><b>Some people</b> rinse the onions in cold water after peeling, or chop them underwater. Some recommend keeping onions in the fridge, or plopping them in the freezer for a few minutes before chopping. Some chop from the stem end down, others from the root end up. Some recommend breathing through the nose, others only through the mouth, while others still hold a sip of water in their mouth, and try not to laugh and spit it out.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/how_to_peel_onions_without_crying.php#more">How Not To Cry</a>&quot;<br />
<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/how_to_peel_onions_without_crying.php#comments">View comments</a><br /><br />
<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Thoughts</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-04-26T18:18:03+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/50_things_to_do_with_fresh_sorrel.php">
<title>50 Things To Do With Fresh Sorrel</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/50_things_to_do_with_fresh_sorrel.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="photo" alt="Sorrel" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/herbs/sorrel.jpg" width="270" height="372" /></p>

<p><strong>Garden sorrel</strong> (<i>Rumex acetosa</i>) is commonly cultivated in French vegetable patches, and the season is just beginning. It is a sturdy, easy-to-grow leafy plant that comes back year after year, and belongs to the same botanical <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonaceae">family</a> as rhubarb and buckwheat, which is always fun to know.</p>

<p>I think of it as being halfway between <strong>a green and an herb</strong>: its flavor is notably tangy and sour, and it can be eaten raw or gently cooked, but in both cases it is best served in combination with other ingredients, so its pungency won't overwhelm.</p>

<p>Well used, it is a delight that can really <strong>lift</strong> a dish, especially in conjunction with a sweet or fatty element.</p>

<p>But the operative words here are "well used" and I thought I would turn to you via <a href="http://twitter.com/#!/clotildenet">twitter</a> to hear about <strong>your favorite uses</strong> of fresh sorrel, as I did last year for the <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/05/45_things_to_do_with_fresh_sage.php">45 things to do with fresh sage</a> list.</p>

<p>Many <strong>thanks</strong> to all who chimed in; here's the list I compiled, for your use and enjoyment.</p>

<p>(Note: in French, sorrel is <b>oseille</b> and it's a classic slang word for money, <a href="http://books.google.fr/books?id=5WvgEJ3gmG4C&pg=PA117&lpg=PA117&dq=oseille+argot+pourquoi&source=bl&ots=shEBZQ-ve_&sig=2S5yY476hNGymuw7XlvW9D5jFYM&hl=fr&ei=iUWtTeSOKIzB8QOm9OzyAQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7&ved=0CE0Q6AEwBg#v=onepage&q&f=false">in use</a> since the late nineteenth century. Woody Allen's 1969 movie <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065063/">Take The Money And Run</a> was released in France under the title "Prends l'oseille et tire-toi.")</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/50_things_to_do_with_fresh_sorrel.php#more">50 Things To Do With Fresh Sorrel</a>&quot;<br />
<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/50_things_to_do_with_fresh_sorrel.php#comments">View comments</a><br /><br />
<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Ingredients</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-04-19T18:30:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/water_kefir_tibicos.php">
<title>Water Kefir</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/water_kefir_tibicos.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="Kefir" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/drinks/kefir1.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>Those of you who subscribe to my <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/newsletter.html" target="_self">newsletter</a> already know that I worked for a little while last month at <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bobs-Juice-Bar/28014229087?sk=info">Bob's Kitchen</a>, a (very good) vegetarian lunch restaurant and juice bar in the 3rd arrondissement.</p>

<p>The team had been hired to provide the food during a <a href="http://www.cinemadureel.org/">film festival</a> that was held at Beaubourg, so they needed a few more hands on deck, and I seized this <b>opportunity</b> to gain a little pro cooking experience, to catch a behind-the-scenes glimpse at how such a restaurant works, and (perk of perks) to have lunch there every day for the duration of my employ.</p>

<p>I was extraordinarily <strong>happy</strong> with the experience, which left me with a new callus on my right index finger from chopping so many vegetables, a bunch of new friends, and a newly acquired dexterity at tying a <a href="http://store.americanapparel.net/6445.html">scarf</a> turban-style on my hair so none would fall into the signature "veggie stew."</p>

<p>Also: <b>water kefir grains</b>.</p>

<p>I was already familiar with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kefir">milk kefir</a>, a fermented milk beverage that is greatly popular in Central and Eastern Europe, and which I <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2008/07/lemon_kefir_ice_cream.php" target="_self">adore</a>.</p>

<p>However, I had yet to be introduced to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tibicos">water kefir</a> (also known as tibi or tibicos, and <i>kéfir de fruits</i> in French), a water-based fermented drink that is lightly effervescent, sweet and sour, and particularly refreshing.</p>

<p>The team at Bob's Kitchen made regular batches of it to offer on the drinks menu, and this gave me a chance to <strong>taste</strong> (and fall under the spell of) it.</p>

<p>The key ingredient in the making of water kefir is a small quantity of <b>water kefir grains</b>, sometimes called Japanese water crystals. These bouncy and translucent pebbles are home to a culture of yeasts and friendly bacteria that thrive and multiply in sugared water: these symbiotic microorganisms essentially "digest" the sugar in the water, producing alcohol*, lactic acid and carbon dioxide, which results in a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Probiotic">probiotic</a> (and therefore health-promoting), delicious drink.</p>

<p>Marc, the co-founder of Bob's Kitchen, offered to give me some of the grains to make my own kefir, and I could not have accepted with more enthusiasm. I figure one cannot have too many <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/07/natural_starter_bread.php" target="_self">microorganisms</a> proliferating in one's kitchen, as long as they're the friendly kind.</p>

<p>I follow the general <strong>instructions</strong> my coworker Anna gave me, but in researching other "recipes" online, I've noticed the method, and the proportions of grains to water to sugar vary to some extent from one source to the next, so the overall process is fairly forgiving.</p>

<p>But <strong>the idea</strong> is always this: you combine the kefir grains with sugar, filtered water, an organic lemon (or some other citrus, for acidity), dried fruits (for sugar and flavor; these must also be organic), and possibly spices, and let this mixture ferment at room temperature for a day or two before filtering, bottling, and starting over with a new batch.</p>

<p>It really is very simple and <b>low-commitment</b>, and you can experiment with different kinds of citrus and dried fruits (though lemon and fig are traditional), as well as spices, or try adding fresh fruit and herbs to the mix, too. I hear fresh cherries or strawberries give the kefir a rosy hue.</p>

<p>We have been drinking a glass every day at <b>breakfast</b>, and occasionally another one later in the day, especially when I get home on my bike and the uphill ride has made me thirsty, but I'm seeing the distinct possibility of using it in cocktails.</p>

<p>Unlike a <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/07/natural_starter_bread.php" target="_self">natural starter</a> for bread, it's not possible to create your own kefir grains from scratch at home, so you have to <b>obtain</b> them from someone else. Traditionally, you would get them from a friend or relative or neighbor who would give them to you for free, but nowadays you can order them online in exchange for a small fee to cover shipping and handling (which is only fair). You can also check your local classifieds, or ask around -- at your local health food store, for instance -- as someone may know someone who can provide them.</p>

<p><img alt="Kefir" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/drinks/kefir2.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>* The resulting drink is therefore very faintly alcoholic, usually less than 1% by volume. Many sources indicate that it is fine for children or pregnant women to drink in moderation, but naturally you should decide for yourself.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/water_kefir_tibicos.php#more">Water Kefir</a>&quot;<br />
<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/water_kefir_tibicos.php#comments">View comments</a><br /><br />
<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Recipe Inside!</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-04-12T18:30:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/chinese_marinated_pork_ribs.php">
<title>Chinese Marinated Pork Ribs</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/chinese_marinated_pork_ribs.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="Pork ribs" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/meat/traversdeporc.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>In the very early days of 2011, I was invited to lunch by a blogger-friend*. In preparation for the meal, she said two <strong>promising</strong> things: "I hope you like Chinese food" and "Come hungry."</p>

<p>In her pretty apartment filled with <strong>lovely things</strong> to look at -- postcards and drawings and old vinyls and slim books with soft covers -- she treated me to a cornucopian spread of Chinese dishes, all of them family recipes from her mother's kitchen.</p>

<p>Among these were her Cantonese-style <strong>roasted pork ribs</strong> (<i>siu pai gwat</i>), sticky and lightly sweet in their caramelized protein crust, and marvelously soft underneath, so soft you could pull the bones out of your mouth neatly, with nary a shred of meat left on them. Paired with a bowl of steamed white rice from her adorable rice cooker -- a doll-sized version I have not been able to shoo out of my covetous mind -- it was an absolute delight.</p>

<p>The wonderful thing about being a guest at a blogger's table is that there is a good chance that whatever you've eaten and loved has been <strong>featured</strong> on their site, or will soon be, so you don't even have to badger them for a recipe.</p>

<p>And indeed, <a href="http://mingoumango.blogspot.com/2008/11/la-nostalgie-dun-matin-doctobre-et-des.html">this one had</a>.</p>

<p>Although the recipe is very simple -- it's just a matter of marinating and then roasting the meat in the oven -- it took me a few weeks to muster the ingredients needed for the <strong>marinade</strong>. But when Maxence and I decided to trek over to the 13th arrondissement (where the largest Paris Chinatown is) for dim sum one Saturday, a quick dip inside <a href="http://www.paris-store.com/">Paris Store</a> turned up the two missing ingredients.</p>

<p>A week later, having purchased some pork ribs -- <i>travers de porc</i> in French -- from my butcher**, I set out to follow the recipe. I lowered the oven temperature a bit, and found that it would have been good to cover the dish for the first half of the baking (as I recommend in the recipe below) to avoid excessive coloring, but aside from those details it was a <strong>smooth ride</strong>.</p>

<p>I cooked some short-grain <b>white rice</b> and made a <b>spicy cucumber salad</b> with rice vinegar, sesame oil and garlic, and we sat down to a rather felicitous lunch.</p>

<p>The next day, I used the leftover rice and meat to make (what else?) <b>fried rice</b>, with <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/05/radish_leaf_pesto.php" target="_self">radish leaves</a> stirred in. I also kept the bones in the freezer for my next <a href="http://hungryamateurs.com/2011/01/adobo-pulled-pork-tonkotsu-ramen/">tonkotsu ramen</a>, happy as ever to be getting three different dishes out of one hunk of meat.</p>

<p><img alt="Fried Rice with Pork Rib Meat" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/meat/friedrice.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>* I'd brought her a round of starter bread slashed in her initial -- or rather, the inital of her nom de plume -- and a little jar of my <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/07/natural_starter_bread.php" target="_self">starter</a>. She later made a wonderful <a href="http://lapeaudourse.blogspot.com/2011/01/impose-ta-chance-serre-ton-bonheur-et.html">drawing</a> of that loaf, and then <a href="http://lapeaudourse.blogspot.com/2011/03/limmarcescible-melancolie-de-lhiver.html">embarked</a> on her own bread-baking adventures with her freshly baptized starter, Anatole.</p>

<p>** I encourage you to seek out ethically raised pork meat from a provider who can answer your questions. The overwhelming majority of pork meat available in Western countries comes from concentrated animal feeding operations that have disastrous consequences on the environment, their workers, animal welfare and human health. To learn more, you can for instance read Jonathan Safran Foer's book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0316069884?tag=chocolzucchi-20">Eating Animals</a>.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/chinese_marinated_pork_ribs.php#more">Chinese Marinated Pork Ribs</a>&quot;<br />
<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/chinese_marinated_pork_ribs.php#comments">View comments</a><br /><br />
<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Meat &amp; Charcuterie</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-04-05T18:30:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/april_2011_desktop_calendar.php">
<title>April 2011 Desktop Calendar</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/april_2011_desktop_calendar.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="photo" alt="April 2011 Desktop Calendar" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/calendar/2011/04/petitspois_small.jpg" width="370" height="246"></p>

<p><i>At the beginning of every month, I am offering C&Z readers a new wallpaper to apply on the desktop of your computer, with a food-related picture and a calendar of the current month.</i></p>

<p>Our <b>calendar for April</b> is a picture of <b>peas in their pod</b>. I've written before about the <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2008/05/on_fresh_peas_and_how_to_shell_them.php" target="_self">pleasures of fresh peas</a>, and I am excitedly awaiting the first specimens of the season this month.</p>

<p>I like my peas simply steamed, especially as a side to a roasted duck fillet, in a quick bowl of <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/10/fregola_sarda_with_zucchini_and_parmesan.php" target="_self">fregola sarda</a>, or in the <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/03/green_pea_cilantro_spread.php" target="_self">peacamole</a> I've written about here. As for the pods, they will certainly <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/04/tips_for_a_green_kitchen.php#foodwaste" target="_self">not get tossed</a>, but rather turned into a <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2008/06/chilled_pea_pod_soup.php" target="_self">chilled pea pod soup</a>. What about you, what do you like to do with your peas?</p>

<p>Instructions to <b>get your calendar</b> are below.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/april_2011_desktop_calendar.php#more">April 2011 Desktop Calendar</a>&quot;<br />
<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/april_2011_desktop_calendar.php#comments">View comments</a><br /><br />
<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Desktop Calendar</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-04-01T01:00:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/butterless_apple_crumble.php">
<title>Butterless Apple Crumble</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/butterless_apple_crumble.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="Butterless Apple Crumble" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/desserts/butterlessapplecrumble.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>It's only recently that I've realized that the <strong>crumble topping</strong> of a fruit crumble doesn't have to be made with butter to be crisp and delicious.</p>

<p>Did you know? Am I the last person to find out?</p>

<p>The epiphany came from my intensive <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/11/basic_granola_formula.php" target="_self">granola</a>-making activities: after all, isn't granola a second cousin to the crumble topping? And if I make granola with oil, not butter, why not try that in a crumble?</p>

<p>And so, for the past few months -- since the beginning of this year's apple season, really -- I have gone <strong>butterless</strong> with all of my apple crumbles. (And I've made quite a few.)</p>

<p>There are several benefits. First, the crumble topping is considerably <strong>faster</strong> to mix: measure the ingredients, combine in a bowl, stir with a fork, and that's it, you're done. No dicing of butter, and no rubbing either. It takes five minutes tops, including the time to put all the ingredients and utensils back where they belong and wipe down the counter if you've spilled a little flour, which no recipe prep time in the world accounts for.</p>

<p>Second, I find that the absence of butter <strong>shifts</strong> the balance of flavor so that the (good unrefined) sugars that you use, the spices, and of course the apples themselves, sing through with a more subtle complexity.</p>

<p>And third, those who <strong>avoid dairy</strong> for whatever reason will be grateful for an apple crumble they can eat, especially one that can stand proudly on its own, without the crutch of crème fraîche or ice cream that seems to be automatically tacked on.</p>

<p>One more note about my apple crumbles of late: I like to <strong>half-peel</strong> the apples in alternating strips. Not because I'm half-lazy, though maybe I am, but because I like the rustic touch of finding a few pieces of apple skin in my crumble, and half-peeled apples deliver just the right amount. I also pick <strong>a mix</strong> of apple varieties -- like I do for my apple tarts -- to get as vivacious an apple taste as possible.</p>

<p>I hope you'll <b>give it a try</b>. But for the die-hard butter lovers out there who simply must have it in their apple desserts, I recommend this rather outstanding <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/02/brown_butter_spiced_crisp.php" target="_self">brown butter spiced crisp</a>.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/butterless_apple_crumble.php#more">Butterless Apple Crumble</a>&quot;<br />
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<small>Copyright Clotilde Dusoulier &copy; 2003-2011. This feed is for personal enjoyment only, and not for republication.<br />If you are not reading this in a news aggregator, the site you are viewing is guilty of copyright infringement. Please alert <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/contact/contact.php">Clotilde Dusoulier</a>.</small><br />]]>
</description>
<dc:subject>Cakes &amp; Desserts</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-03-29T18:30:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/blood_bones_butter.php">
<title>Blood, Bones &amp; Butter</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/blood_bones_butter.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/140006872X?tag=chocolzucchi-20"><img alt="Blood, Bones &amp; Butter" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/books/bloodbonesbutter.jpg" width="232" height="370" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></p>

<p>I have an <strong>ambivalent</strong> relationship to food memoirs.</p>

<p>On the one hand, a book that's entirely devoted to food and food experiences should have my name all over it. On the other hand, I deal with food so exclusively and so intensely all day and all week long that when I sit down to read at night or on weekends, I sort of want to read about <strong>other lives entirely</strong>.</p>

<p>And this is one of the reasons why I so enjoyed <strong>Gabrielle Hamilton</strong>'s memoir.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/140006872X?tag=chocolzucchi-20">Blood, Bones & Butter</a> is a food memoir in as much as the author is a food professional -- she's the chef and owner of <a href="http://www.prunerestaurant.com/">Prune</a>, a small and highly popular restaurant in NYC's East Village* -- but it is, in truth, a lot wider in scope than "the inadvertent education of a reluctant chef," as the (somewhat clunky) subtitle reads.</p>

<p>I won't reveal anything about the arc of her life story: I like to know as little as possible about books before I read them so I'm not about to <strong>spoil</strong> this one for you, but let's just say (and I've provided links below if you want to know more) that it hasn't been the smoothest of rides.</p>

<p>And the book she has drawn from it is the rawest, most plainspoken, <strong>no-holds-barred</strong> memoir I have ever read. It is marvelously engrossing, and it pulls you in with the author's naked honesty and the way she looks back at her life, dark passages included, with no glossing over, retracing her steps without making excuses or trying to shed a flattering light on herself.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/blood_bones_butter.php#more">Blood, Bones & Butter</a>&quot;<br />
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</description>
<dc:subject>Books &amp; Cookbooks</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-03-22T17:36:08+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/japan_on_my_mind.php">
<title>Japan on My Mind</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/japan_on_my_mind.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="Moss garden" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/japan/mossgarden_pots.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /><br />
<span style="color: grey;font-size: xx-small">Moss garden at Gio-ji temple in Arashiyama (Kyoto).</span></p>

<p>I seldom invite <b>world events</b> to appear on Chocolate & Zucchini, because we live in an age of such hyperinformation that we don't need -- and often don't want -- to see the same topics on the news and on the food blogs we read.</p>

<p>But in light of what has happened in <b>Japan</b>, what is still happening in Japan, and what I fear is going to happen next in Japan, I need a bit of time before we go back to our regular programming.</p>

<p>There is little we can do but despair over the nuclear crisis, but what we can do now is contribute however much or little we can to the <b>emergency relief effort</b> for the hundreds of thousands of victims of the earthquake and tsunami.</p>

<p>My friend <a href="http://shewhoeats.blogspot.com/2011/03/shaken.html">Chika</a> has set up a <a href="http://www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/chika-shewhoeats/japan-disaster-relief-with-sakura">fundraising page</a> to support the International Rescue Committee, and <a href="http://www.cocoandme.com/2011/03/12/japan-earthquake-tsunami-relief/">Tamami</a> has <a href="http://www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/cocoandme/japan-disaster-relief">created one</a> in favor of Save the Children.</p>

<p>Beyond these initiatives, Elizabeth Andoh, who runs <a href="http://www.tasteofculture.com/">A Taste of Culture</a> in Tokyo and Osaka, suggests making donations to <a href="http://www.doctorswithoutborders.org/">Doctors without Borders</a>, <a href="http://www.nethope.org/">NetHope</a>, or <a href="http://www.internationalmedicalcorps.org/">International Medical Corps</a>.</p>

<p><u>Edited to add:</u><br />
~ Reader Filicophyta sends a link to NPR's <a href="http://www.npr.org/blogs/thetwo-way/2011/03/14/134532391/crisis-in-japan-heres-how-to-help ">list of organizations</a> taking Japan tsunami donations,<br />
~ Reader <a href="http://parisetc.com/">Eri</a> sends a link to detailed <a href="http://www.devex.com/en/articles/ways-to-donate-to-japan-pacific-relief-efforts?source=DefaultHomepage_Headline">list of organizations</a> edited by Devex,<br />
~ Reader <a href="http://chocolatechillimango.com/">Viviane</a> has set up a <a href="http://www.redcrossfundraising.org.au/chocolate_chilli_mango">fundraising page</a> benefiting Red Cross Australia,<br />
~ Reader <a href="http://moonstruckinmontana.blogspot.com/">Moonstruckinmt</a> points to Jason Kelly's <a href="http://jasonkelly.com/helpjapan/">Socks for Japan</a> initiative,<br />
~ Reader Stacey sends a link to a <a href="http://www.forjapanwithlove.com/">fundraising page</a> in favor of ShelterBox.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/japan_on_my_mind.php#more">Japan on My Mind</a>&quot;<br />
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</description>
<dc:subject>Interlude</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-03-15T12:34:13+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/hummus.php">
<title>Hummus</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/hummus.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="photo" alt="Hummus" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/dips/hummus.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>I realize the world has not been <b>holding its breath</b> waiting for me to share my recipe for hummus.</p>

<p>But it does seem like the world, or at least a portion of its inhabitants, could use a friendly reminder about <b>homemade hummus</b>: how good it is, how easy, and how cheap, too.</p>

<p>Just out of curiosity, I've calculated the <b>approximate cost</b> of my hummus, which I make from dried chickpeas, and with organic ingredients, and I've worked out that it costs me under 2€ to produce the generous batch below. I'm not counting my time (maybe fifteen minutes of active work all in all), nor the electricity needed to cook the chickpeas on the stove and purée the hummus in the blender, but it adds up to roughly 3€/kg ($2/lb).</p>

<p>Now, if you <b>buy it</b> at the supermarket, where it is most definitely not organic and a few non-pantry items creep uninvited into the ingredients list, it costs 13.50€/kg ($9/lb). And if you were to get it fresh from the Middle-Eastern deli in my neighborhood, because you have friends coming over for the <i>apéro</i> and you happen to be walking past the shop, you may pay up to -- insert gasp here -- 18.70€/kg ($12.50/lb). That's over six times what it costs to make your own.</p>

<p>Your mileage may vary, and perhaps you live near a provider who sells an excellent hummus for less than that, but if you consume as much hummus as <a href="http://www.vogue.com/magazine/article/natalie-portman-january-2011-cover/">Natalie</a> and I do, it is worth calculating what that <strong>delicious habit</strong> is costing you.</p>

<p>Naturally, the <b>obstacle</b> for most would-be hummus makers is the pre-soaking of the dried chickpeas, the long cooking time of legumes, yada yada yada.</p>

<p>To that I say: <b>pshaw</b>. 1- Just a few hours' soaking is enough for chickpeas -- I sometimes go as low as five or six and that's plenty; 2- consider getting a <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/10/pressure_cooker.php" target="_self">pressure cooker</a> and slash down the cooking time significantly; and 3- cooked chickpeas freeze perfectly, especially if they're intended for puréed preparations such as this one, so make a double or triple batch and store the extra in the freezer for hummus-in-a-pinch later.</p>

<p>I've read here and there that some cooks <b>peel</b> their chickpeas for hummus, as in disrobe every single cooked chickpea from its translucent outer skin. This is a testament to their angelic meticulosity, I'm sure, and it is said to yield a smoother texture, but it robs you of some of the nutrients and fiber, too, so I've never bothered.</p>

<p>To conclude, I will note that I once tried making <b>raw hummus</b>, for which you soak the chickpeas, let them sprout for a few days, and then blend them with the rest of the ingredients as if they were cooked. I did not like it one bit.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/hummus.php#more">Hummus</a>&quot;<br />
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</description>
<dc:subject>Dips &amp; Spreads</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-03-09T18:30:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/chicken_in_a_bread_crust.php">
<title>Chicken in a Bread Crust</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/chicken_in_a_bread_crust.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="Chicken in a Bread Crust" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/meat/breadcrustedchicken1.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>I attended the <a href="http://www.omnivore.fr/le-programme-complet-2011/">Omnivore Food Festival</a> in Deauville last week, a three-day event during which chefs from France and way beyond hop on stage and do live demos. This was the sixth edition and I've only missed one since it started, but this year was extra special for me because I'd been asked to <b>host</b> the pastry chefs' demos in the <i>sucré</i> auditorium.</p>

<p>I had a blast meeting such talented individuals, from <a href="http://www.bubo.ws/">Bubo</a>'s Carles Mampel to <a href="http://noma.com/">Noma</a>'s Rosio Sanchez by way of the <a href="http://ritzparis.fr/">Ritz</a>'s Sébastien Serveau, and accompanying them through their demo so the audience got the most out of it.</p>

<p>One of the (many) perks of this job was that I got to hang out <b>backstage</b> in the <i>salé</i> auditorium when I didn't have demos to present myself. And this is where I was when Sven Chartier, the young chef behind the über-hyped Paris restaurant Saturne*, started his presentation.</p>

<p>I was chatting with friends while keeping an eye on the monitor, and saw that Chartier was showing something he called <b>la poulette des amis</b>, a young hen from the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarthe">Sarthe</a> that he had cooked in a bread crust, nestled in <a href="http://www.dupainetdesidees.com/">Christophe Vasseur</a>'s now-legendary <i>pain des amis</i> (bread of friends).</p>

<p>Chartier <a href="http://twitpic.com/41y6h6">sliced</a> the dark-brown crust open to <a href="http://twitpic.com/41y6jn">reveal</a> the chicken inside, and immediately two thoughts popped in my head: 1- this is like <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/01/salt-crusted_chicken.php" target="_self">salt-crusted chicken</a>, only <b>100% edible</b>, and 2- someone's got to get that chicken-juiced crust back in here.</p>

<p>That someone was me (I am nothing if not determined, so I walked out on stage after the demo and asked Chartier's commis if there was a chance he might donate the crust in the name of culinary research) and our lucky little group happily tore <b>samples</b> from it.</p>

<p>I returned home with the idea firmly lodged in the lobe of my brain I allocate to such vital matters. We happened to have friends over for dinner a few nights later, and the menu planning took a nanosecond: I was going to cook a <strong>bread-crusted chicken</strong> of my own, using a sourdough crust I'd make with my trusted starter Philémon (you guys <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/entriesbytopic.php?tag=Natural+Starter" target="_self">have met</a>, right?).</p>

<p>The overall method I used was merged from the ones I've already described for <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/01/salt-crusted_chicken.php" target="_self">salt-crusted chicken</a> (including the subcutaneous parsley) and <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/08/pain_au_levain.php">pain au levain</a> (with the addition of dried herbs for flavor). I found that the bread dough was easier to work with than the salt crust dough, because it is more elastic and therefore more docile.</p>

<p>I baked the chicken for an hour and a half, and the bread crust was nicely browned, but not <i>too</i> dark, when I sliced it open for carving. The skin of the chicken was less golden than with the salt crust, which I suspect is more porous, but plenty of juices had collected inside, and the chicken was just as <b>moist and flavorful</b>.</p>

<p>The very bottom of the bread crust, right where the chicken was sitting, wasn't crisp enough for serving, but I cut the rest of the bread into <b>big chunks</b> to eat with the chicken, a wonderful treat that the salt crust method can't quite compete with. And over the next couple of days, the leftovers of that crust were reheated in the oven and served with a grated carrot salad, and then alongside the stock I made with the chicken carcass.</p>

<p>* Where I still haven't been because too much buzz kinda kills it for me.</p>

<p><img alt="Chicken in a Bread Crust" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/meat/breadcrustedchicken2.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/chicken_in_a_bread_crust.php#more">Chicken in a Bread Crust</a>&quot;<br />
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</description>
<dc:subject>Meat &amp; Charcuterie</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-03-02T18:00:00+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/march_2011_desktop_calendar.php">
<title>March 2011 Desktop Calendar</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/march_2011_desktop_calendar.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="photo" alt="March 2010 Desktop Calendar" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/calendar/2011/03/goatcheese_small.jpg" width="370" height="246"></p>

<p><i>At the beginning of every month, I am offering C&Z readers a new wallpaper to apply on the desktop of your computer, with a food-related picture and a calendar of the current month.</i></p>

<p>Our <b>calendar for March</b> is a picture of a <b>chèvre frais cendré</b> -- ash-coated fresh goat cheese -- taken at a small market stall that was giving away sample slices.</p>

<p>Not everyone realizes that <b>cheese is a seasonal product too</b>, and that artisanal goat cheese can only be made between early spring and early fall, when the goats are lactating to feed their kids. (Fresh goat cheese sold outside of that time period is usually made from frozen milk.)</p>

<p>So this month's calendar is all about celebrating the arrival of the first rounds of fresh goat cheese. I hope you saved a little of that <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/11/multigrain_starter_bread.php" target="_self">multigrain starter bread</a> from last month's calendar to go with it!</p>

<p>Instructions to <b>get your calendar</b> are below.</p>]]><![CDATA[<br />Continue reading &quot;<a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/03/march_2011_desktop_calendar.php#more">March 2011 Desktop Calendar</a>&quot;<br />
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</description>
<dc:subject>Desktop Calendar</dc:subject>
<dc:creator>clotilde</dc:creator>
<dc:date>2011-03-01T00:30:30+01:00</dc:date>
</item>

<item rdf:about="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/02/carrot_barley_galettes.php">
<title>Carrot Barley Galettes</title>
<link>http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/02/carrot_barley_galettes.php</link>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img class="photo" alt="Carrot and Barley Galettes" src="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/images/vegetables/galettecarotteorge.jpg" width="370" height="246" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></p>

<p>For the past three years now, I've been writing a column in <a href="http://cuisine.elle.fr/elle/Elle-a-Table">ELLE à table</a>, a French bimonthly cooking magazine. This column spans two pages, and I generally devote one to an ingredient (cardamom! buckwheat! white chocolate!) and what you can do with it, the other to a food experience or trend (superfoods! Japanese pastries! mushroom picking!) and why you should care about it.</p>

<p>In the next installment (spoiler alert), due to appear in the March/April issue of the magazine, I'm declaring my passion for the <b>rolled grain</b> -- <i>flocon de céréale</i> in French -- as a multi-faceted ingredient and an all-around trouper: cheap, nutritious, and versatile.</p>

<p>If the term "rolled grain" doesn't ring a bell, just think of <b>oatmeal</b>: each of these little flakes is in fact an oat groat that was rolled between two tight cylinders to make it flat (ouch). In fact, when you look at a rolled grain closely, you can recognize the shape of the original grain, with the "seam" in the middle (I admit without shame that I realized this only recently). The same treatment can be, and is, applied to other unsuspecting grains: spelt, barley, rice, kamut, wheat, rye, you name it.</p>

<p>I am never without a bag or two or four of assorted <i>flocons</i>, and I use them in very many things, from <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2010/11/basic_granola_formula.php" target="_self">granola</a> to <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2007/07/spelt_and_honey_crisps.php" target="_self">cookies</a>, from bread dough to <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2004/08/apricot_and_melon_crumble_with_pinenuts.php" target="_self">fruit crumbles</a>, and from gratins to <a href="http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2009/05/easy_olive_oil_tart_crust.php" target="_self">savory tarts</a>. </p>

<p>And I've recently added a new type of preparation to the list of great things rolled grains and I can accomplish: please meet the <b>carrot and barley galette</b>, a vegan vegetable and grain patty that would love to meet you for lun…